Stop the Drip! Your Confident DIY Guide to Fixing a Leaky Bathtub

Last Modified : Mon Jul 14 2025 By: Thilina Rathnayaka

Frustrated by a leaky bathtub? Learn to identify the source (faucet, drain, overflow) and fix it yourself with our step-by-step guide. Save money & gain plumbing confidence!

You hear the drip, see the water stain on the ceiling below, or feel dampness around the tub. It's frustrating, anxiety-inducing, and makes you worry about water damage and repair costs. Whether it's a steady drip from the faucet, water seeping from the drain pipe under the tub, moisture around the overflow plate, or mysterious pooling on the floor, a leaky bathtub feels like an urgent problem. You want it fixed now, but you also want it fixed right without causing more problems or wasting money.

That persistent drip-drip-drip from your bathtub isn't just annoying – it's wasting water and potentially damaging your home. Before you panic or reach for the phone to call a plumber (and their hefty bill), take a deep breath. Most bathtub leaks are surprisingly fixable DIY projects once you know where to look and what to do. This guide will walk you through finding the leak, choosing the right fix, and getting your bathroom back to peaceful silence, empowering you as a homeowner.

Tools Needed

Adjustable Wrench (or Basin Wrench for tight spaces): For loosening/tightening nuts.
Screwdrivers (Phillips & Flathead): For removing trim plates and screws.
Channel-Lock Pliers: Gripping pipes and stubborn parts.
Plumber's Putty Knife: Scraping off old putty/silicone.
Flashlight: Shining light into dark recesses.
Bucket & Towels: For catching water and cleanup.
Safety Glasses: Protecting eyes from debris.
Gloves (Nitrile or Rubber): Keeping hands dry and clean.

Materials Needed

Plumber's Putty (Non-staining): For sealing drain flanges & overflow covers.
Silicone Caulk (100% Silicone, Bathroom Grade): For sealing around tub edges/spouts (check compatibility!).
Replacement Washers/O-Rings: Specific size/type for your faucet cartridge/stem.
Replacement Gasket(s): For drain waste/overflow assembly (often comes in kits).
Teflon Tape (Thread Seal Tape): For sealing threaded pipe connections.
Replacement Cartridge/Stem Assembly (If needed): Match your faucet model exactly.

Solution (Beginner to Intermediate - 30 minutes - 2 hours (depending on leak source & complexity))

Step 1: Find the Leak Source (Be a Plumbing Detective!)

Turn on the tub faucet fully and watch closely. Check: the spout itself, where the spout meets the wall, the handles/base of the faucet, the overflow plate (inside the tub), and the drain. Dry everything thoroughly with a towel. Now, just fill the tub a few inches (don't run the faucet). Check under the tub (if accessible) and around the overflow for leaks. Drain the water. Does the leak occur while filling, draining, only when full, or constantly? This tells you if it's the faucet, overflow gasket, drain gasket, or tub sealant.

⚠️ Warning: Ensure the floor is dry before starting to prevent slips. Wear gloves and eye protection when inspecting under the tub.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools & Materials (Match the Fix to the Leak)

Based on your detective work: For faucet drips, you'll likely need washers/O-rings or a cartridge. For drain/overflow leaks, you need plumber's putty and/or gaskets. For water around the tub edge, you need silicone caulk. For a leaking drain pipe under the tub, you might need a new gasket or Teflon tape. Get the exact replacement parts for your specific fixtures – take old parts to the hardware store if unsure.

⚠️ Warning: Turn OFF the main water supply to the house before working on faucets! Relieve pressure by opening a faucet on a lower floor.

Step 3: Fix Faucet Leaks (Washers, O-Rings & Cartridges)

Remove the handle(s) (often a small set screw under a cap). Use your wrench to carefully unscrew the packing nut. Pull out the stem or cartridge. Inspect the rubber washer at the tip and any O-rings on the stem. Replace any worn or damaged parts with exact matches. Lightly lubricate new O-rings with plumber's grease. Reassemble carefully, ensuring the stem/cartridge key aligns. Hand-tighten nuts first, then give a gentle quarter-turn with the wrench. Don't overtighten! Turn water back on slowly and test.

⚠️ Warning: Handle cartridges gently. Take photos during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly. Overtightening can crack fixtures.

Step 4: Fix Drain & Overflow Leaks (Gaskets & Putty Power)

Remove the overflow plate screws. Carefully pull the plate and linked drain assembly up from inside the tub. Underneath, you'll find a large gasket sealing the overflow pipe to the tub wall. Scrape off old putty/gunk from the overflow flange and drain flange. Apply a thick rope of plumber's putty under the drain flange lip before setting it back into the tub hole. Place the new overflow gasket over the pipe. Reassemble the linkage. Tighten the large locknut under the tub onto the drain body firmly by hand, then a quarter-turn with pliers. Ensure the assembly moves freely to open/close the drain. Wipe away excess putty.

⚠️ Warning: Support the drain assembly while tightening underneath. Overtightening the locknut can crack the tub or distort the gasket. Ensure the drain shoe sits flush with the tub bottom.

Step 5: Seal the Tub Edge (Silicone Savior)

If water is escaping around the tub edge onto the floor, the sealant has failed. Use a putty knife to meticulously remove ALL old silicone or caulk from the joint between the tub and tile/wall. Clean the area thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely. Apply painter's tape to the tub and wall for clean lines. Cut a SMALL hole in the silicone tube tip. Apply a smooth, continuous bead of 100% silicone into the joint, slightly overfilling it. Immediately wet your finger (spit works!) or use a smoothing tool and run it along the bead to tool it smooth and force it into the joint. Carefully remove the tape while the silicone is still wet. Let it cure fully (check product instructions, usually 24+ hours) before using the shower.

⚠️ Warning: Ventilate the area well. 100% silicone sticks to everything – wear gloves and avoid contact with surfaces you don't want it on! Acrylic caulk won't hold up in the wet shower environment.

Step 6: Final Test & Cleanup (Celebrate the Silence!)

Double-check all connections are snug but not overtightened. Turn the water supply back on slowly. Fill the tub past the overflow line and let it sit for 15-30 minutes. Check meticulously under the tub, around the overflow plate, drain, faucet, and tub edge for ANY moisture. Drain the tub and check again. Wipe everything down. Admire your leak-free handiwork!

⚠️ Warning: Be patient during the test. Small seeps might take a minute to appear. If a leak persists, re-evaluate the source before proceeding.

Pro Tips

Take photos with your phone at every disassembly step – your future self will thank you!
Wrap the jaws of your wrench or pliers with masking tape to prevent scratching chrome fixtures.
For stubborn nuts under the tub, a basin wrench is worth its weight in gold for extra reach and leverage.
When applying silicone, less is more. A small, well-tooled bead is better than a thick, messy one.
Keep replacement washers/O-rings for your specific faucets on hand – they're cheap insurance.
A headlamp frees up both hands for working under the tub.

When to Call a Professional

Call a licensed plumber if: The leak is in the water supply lines inside the wall/floor (not at fixture connections), you suspect major pipe corrosion, the leak persists after multiple careful repair attempts, you need to solder pipes (if you're not experienced), the tub itself is cracked, or you simply feel unsafe or overwhelmed. Don't risk significant water damage – knowing your limits is smart DIY.

Understanding the Problem in Detail

Leaks happen due to wear (rubber washers/gaskets harden), corrosion (metal parts degrade), improper installation (insufficient sealant, loose nuts), or shifting/settling (breaking seals). Water takes the path of least resistance, so the leak location isn't always the failure point. Understanding basic components (cartridge, stems, drain assembly, overflow tube, P-trap) helps demystify the process.

Tools and Materials Guide

Adjustable Wrench: Versatile, but a Basin Wrench ($15-25) is essential for tight sink/tub nuts. Plumber's Putty: Stays pliable, perfect for drain flanges. Silicone: Must be 100% silicone (like GE Advanced, DAP Kwik Seal Ultra) for wet areas; latex or acrylic molds. Washers/O-Rings: Take the old ones to a hardware store's plumbing aisle for exact matches. Gaskets: Often sold as a complete drain/overflow kit ($15-40) or individually. Buy from hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowe's) or plumbing supply houses for better quality parts.

Safety Considerations

ALWAYS turn off the main water supply first! Protect eyes from debris and falling gunk under the tub. Wear gloves to protect hands from sharp edges and chemicals. Ensure good lighting and ventilation. Be mindful of slippery floors. Use sturdy step ladders, not chairs. Never force fittings – you risk cracking expensive porcelain or brass. If accessing under the tub in a crawlspace, be aware of pests, insulation, and limited mobility.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Leak returns immediately? Likely missed a worn washer/O-ring or didn't seat a gasket properly. Re-inspect. Drain wobbles? The locknut underneath is likely loose. Tighten it carefully. Faucet still drips after washer replacement? The valve seat inside the faucet body might be corroded/scratched – needs reseating (special tool) or faucet replacement. Silicone not sticking? Surface wasn't perfectly clean and dry. Remove it all and start over. Water leaking from ceiling below? Source could be tub overflow, drain pipe connection, or even supply lines – trace it carefully from below if possible.

Maintenance and Prevention

Inspect tub seals (silicone) yearly for cracks/gaps and recaulk promptly. Replace rubber washers/O-rings in faucets every 2-3 years preventatively. Avoid hanging heavy weights on the faucet or overflow plate. Use drain strainers to prevent clogs that put stress on pipes. Fix small drips immediately – they only get worse and waste water.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs Professional

DIY: Washers/O-rings: $1-$5. Gasket Kit: $15-$40. Silicone/Plumber's Putty: $5-$10. Cartridge: $15-$50. Total DIY: $5 - $100+ (for complex cartridge). Professional: Service Call + 1-2 hours labor: $150 - $400+, plus parts. Savings: DIY saves $100-$300+ on most common leaks. Investing in quality tools (basin wrench) pays off long-term.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just use duct tape or caulk to stop the leak under the tub?

Absolutely not! These are temporary fixes at best and will fail quickly under water pressure. They won't create a proper seal and can mask the real problem, leading to worse damage. Always fix the underlying cause (replace gasket, tighten connection properly).

How do I know if I need a new faucet or just to repair it?

Try replacing the washers/O-rings or cartridge first (often fixes it). If the leak persists, the faucet body itself might be cracked or the internal valve seats severely damaged. If parts are obsolete or repairs fail repeatedly, replacement is usually more cost-effective than endless fixes on an old fixture.

The leak is only when the tub is draining, not filling. What's wrong?

This almost always points to the drain gasket or the connection between the drain pipe and the P-trap under the tub. The gasket sealing the drain body to the tub bottom fails, or the slip-nut connecting the tailpiece to the P-trap is loose. Check the drain gasket first and tighten the slip-nuts under the tub (hand tight plus 1/4 turn).

Is plumber's putty better than silicone for the drain?

Yes, for the drain flange (the visible part inside the tub), plumber's putty is generally preferred. It remains pliable, creates a great seal under compression, and is easier to clean up excess. Silicone is better for the tub edge where flexibility and constant water exposure are key. Never use putty on plastic drain parts – check manufacturer instructions.