Stop the Drip for Good: Your Confident Guide to Fixing a Leaky Faucet

Last Modified : Mon Jul 14 2025 By: Thilina Rathnayaka

Frustrated by a dripping faucet? Save water, money, and sanity! Our beginner-friendly guide shows you exactly how to fix it yourself safely with common tools. Stop the leak today!

A leaky faucet usually means worn-out rubber washers, O-rings, or internal cartridges. Constant water pressure wears them down, hard water minerals cause corrosion, and cheap parts fail faster. Whether it's a steady drip from the spout, a sneaky leak around the base, or a frustrating hiss from the handle, that wasted water adds up quickly and the sound can drive anyone crazy. You're not alone, and it is fixable!

That incessant drip... drip... drip... isn't just annoying; it's water down the drain and money out of your pocket. We get it – plumbing can feel intimidating. But take a deep breath! Fixing most leaky faucets is a surprisingly approachable DIY task. This guide will transform you from frustrated homeowner to confident faucet fixer, step-by-step.

Tools Needed

Adjustable Wrench (or Basin Wrench - essential for tight sink spaces)
Screwdrivers (Flathead & Phillips - check your faucet screws first)
Needle-Nose Pliers (for small parts & clips)
Allen Wrench Set (common for cartridge faucets - check size needed)
Utility Knife or Small Pick (for prying off decorative caps)
Soft Cloth or Rag (protects faucet finish)
Small Container (to organize parts & prevent loss down drain)
Flashlight (better visibility in dark areas)

Materials Needed

Replacement Washers & O-Rings (Kit matched to faucet brand/type OR assorted kit)
Cartridge or Stem Assembly (ONLY if washer replacement doesn't work or parts are damaged - identify faucet type first!)
Plumber's Grease (Silicone-based - lubricates O-rings & threads, prevents sticking)
White Vinegar (for cleaning mineral deposits - optional but helpful)
Old Toothbrush (for scrubbing parts - optional)

Solution (Beginner to Intermediate - 30 minutes to 2 hours (depending on faucet type & complexity))

Step 1: Shut Off the Water & Prep Your Workspace

Locate the shutoff valves under your sink (turn clockwise until tight). Turn the faucet handles ON briefly to drain remaining water & relieve pressure. Place a rag or towel in the sink basin to catch dropped parts and protect the surface. Gather all your tools and materials within easy reach. Pro Tip: Take a photo of your faucet before disassembly – it's a great reassembly reference!

⚠️ Warning: Never skip shutting off the water! Forcing parts under pressure can cause flooding.

Step 2: Remove the Handle & Access the Guts

Look for a small decorative cap on top of the handle (often hiding a screw). Pry it off gently with a utility knife tip or small flathead. Unscrew the handle screw. If the handle is stuck, try tapping it gently with a screwdriver handle wrapped in cloth, or use pliers with cloth padding to avoid scratches. Lift the handle off. You'll now see the stem assembly (older faucets) or cartridge housing (modern faucets). Pro Tip: If you see a retaining clip holding the cartridge, use needle-nose pliers to carefully remove it.

⚠️ Warning: Be extremely gentle! Force can crack porcelain handles or strip soft metal screws. Protect finishes!

Step 3: Extract the Stem or Cartridge

Use your adjustable wrench (or basin wrench for tight spots) to unscrew the retaining nut holding the stem or cartridge in place. Turn counter-clockwise. Once loose, carefully pull the stem or cartridge straight out. If it's stubborn, gently wiggle it side-to-side while pulling – don't yank! Place it on your work surface. Pro Tip: Keep track of the orientation of all parts as they come out – lay them in order on a towel.

⚠️ Warning: Avoid scratching the faucet body with your wrench! Wrap the jaws with tape or cloth.

Step 4: Identify & Replace Worn Parts

Inspect the stem/cartridge: 1) Spout Drip? Focus on the rubber washer(s) at the very bottom of the stem or cartridge. They'll be flat, cupped, or beveled. Look for cracks, flattening, or tears. 2) Handle/Base Leak? Focus on small O-rings along the sides of the stem or cartridge body. Look for nicks, flattening, or brittleness. Replace any damaged parts with exact matches from your kit. Apply a thin smear of plumber's grease to all new O-rings and washer seats before reassembly. Pro Tip: Clean mineral buildup off the metal parts with vinegar and an old toothbrush while they're out.

⚠️ Warning: Never use petroleum jelly instead of plumber's grease – it degrades rubber!

Step 5: Reassemble Everything Carefully

Insert the stem or cartridge back into the faucet body in the exact same orientation it came out. Hand-tighten the retaining nut first, then use the wrench to snug it up – do not overtighten! Reattach the handle, ensuring it aligns properly with the stem/cartridge. Replace and tighten the handle screw. Pop the decorative cap back on. Pro Tip: Overtightening is a common mistake. Snug is sufficient; crushing parts causes leaks.

⚠️ Warning: Cross-threading during reassembly is disastrous. Start nuts by hand carefully.

Step 6: Test Slowly & Check for Leaks

Slowly turn the main water supply valves back on (counter-clockwise). Open the faucet handles slowly and let the water run for 30 seconds to flush out any debris. Check meticulously: 1) No drip from the spout when closed? 2) No water seeping around the base of the handle(s)? 3) No water pooling under the sink? If leaks persist, slightly tighten the retaining nut (handle base leak) or revisit washer/O-ring fit (spout drip). Pro Tip: Use a dry paper towel to dab around joints – it reveals tiny leaks easily.

⚠️ Warning: If a major leak appears when turning water back on, shut off supply IMMEDIATELY and recheck your work.

Pro Tips

Identify your faucet brand & model before buying parts – it saves huge headaches. Look for logos or model numbers under the base or on handles.
Use an old muffin tin or egg carton to organize small parts in order of removal – makes reassembly foolproof.
Wrap your wrench jaws with masking tape – it prevents shiny chrome finishes from getting scratched.
If a screw is hopelessly stripped, use needle-nose pliers to grip the head and turn it out.
For stubborn mineral deposits, soak parts in white vinegar for 15-30 minutes before scrubbing.
Keep your old parts until the repair is successful – sometimes you need them for comparison!

When to Call a Professional

Call a plumber if: 1) The leak is from the pipes under the sink, not the faucet itself. 2) Shutoff valves are stuck or leaking when turned. 3) The faucet body is cracked or badly corroded. 4) You've replaced washers/O-rings twice and it still leaks. 5) You feel uncomfortable or unsafe at any point. It's smarter to call than risk water damage!

Understanding the Problem in Detail

Think of faucet parts like tires. Constant friction (water pressure) wears down the rubber (washers/O-rings). Hard water leaves mineral 'sandpaper' (scale) that accelerates wear. Cheap parts wear out faster. Different faucet types (compression, cartridge, ball, ceramic disk) have different wear points, but rubber seals are always the weak link. A drip per second wastes 3,000+ gallons a year!

Tools and Materials Guide

Wrenches: Basin wrenches ($10-20) are lifesavers for tight sink nuts – borrow or rent if needed. Washers/O-Rings: Universal kits ($5-10) cover most needs; brand-specific kits ($10-25) are better. Match the shape & size exactly! Cartridges: Identify brand/model first ($15-50). Plumber's Grease: Silicone-based tub ($3-8) lasts years. Buy at hardware stores, home centers, or online. Alternatives: For a very stuck handle, penetrating oil (WD-40 Specialist Penetrant) can help, but keep it off rubber parts!

Safety Considerations

Water Off is Non-Negotiable: Double-check valves are closed. 2) Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses! Mineral deposits or small parts can flick out. 3) Slip Hazard: Work on a dry surface; wipe up spills immediately. 4) Sharp Edges: Be mindful inside sink cabinets. 5) Chemical Safety: Use vinegar in well-ventilated areas. 6) Lifting: Don't strain your back under the sink. 7) Force: If something won't budge, reassess – don't brute-force it. You can cause more damage.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Stuck Handle: Tap gently with a cloth-covered hammer handle. Apply penetrating oil around the base (not on rubber), wait 15 mins, try again. Stuck Retaining Nut: Ensure correct wrench size. Tap wrench handle gently with a hammer. Apply penetrating oil to threads. Leak Persists After Repair: 1) Did you replace ALL worn O-rings (not just washers)? 2) Is the new washer/O-ring the exact size/shape? 3) Did you apply plumber's grease? 4) Is the retaining nut snug but not overtightened? 5) Is the cartridge/stem seated perfectly straight? New Drip Location: Check if an O-ring got pinched or displaced during reassembly. Low Water Pressure After: Check aerator for debris – unscrew spout tip and clean screen.

Maintenance and Prevention

Operate Gently: Don't crank handles shut with excessive force; it crushes washers. 2) Lubricate Annually: Every year or so, shut off water, remove handles, and apply fresh plumber's grease to stems/cartridges & O-rings. 3) Aerate: Clean faucet aerators every 3-6 months to prevent buildup affecting seals. 4) Address Hard Water: Consider a water softener if scale is severe; it dramatically extends washer life.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs Professional

DIY Repair (Washers/O-Rings): $5-$15 (Kit + Grease). DIY Repair (Cartridge): $15-$50. Professional Plumber: $150-$350+ (Trip charge + labor + parts). Savings: Fixing a washer leak yourself can pay for the tools in water savings alone within months! Cartridge replacement is still significantly cheaper than a pro call. Preventative lubrication costs pennies.

Frequently Asked Questions

I can't find the shutoff valves under my sink! What do I do?

Look carefully – sometimes they're behind pipes or insulation. Check nearby closets, the basement, or where the main water line enters your house for a whole-house shutoff. If truly inaccessible, you must call a plumber to install accessible valves before attempting the repair.

How do I know what kind of faucet I have?

Look for brand names. Count the handles: Two handles (hot/cold) are often compression or cartridge. One handle is usually cartridge, ball, or ceramic disk. If turning the handle(s) requires more than 1/4 turn to go from off to full on, it's likely cartridge/ceramic. If it spins freely, it might be a ball type. Take photos and show them at the hardware store.

I replaced the washers, but it's still dripping! Why?

The most common reasons are: 1) You missed a worn O-ring further up the stem or on the cartridge body (especially causing handle/base leaks). 2) The replacement washer isn't the exact correct size or type. 3) The seat (the metal surface the washer presses against) is pitted or damaged. 4) The retaining nut is too loose or overtightened. 5) The cartridge itself is cracked or worn internally and needs full replacement.

Is it worth fixing an old faucet, or should I just replace it?

If it's a simple washer/O-ring fix and you like the faucet, repair is very cost-effective. If the faucet body is corroded, parts are unavailable, you need multiple cartridge replacements quickly, or you want an upgrade (like a pull-down sprayer), replacement is a good option. Modern faucets are often easier to repair in the long run.